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Riding the waves of change

By CHEN BOWEN in Wanning, Hainan | China Daily | Updated: 2025-09-26 08:46
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A small clownfish is a big star in the crystal-clear waters of Wanning, Hainan province. [Photo provided to China Daily]

On the sun-drenched coast of China's tropical island province of Hainan, a wave of new energy is surging. From the world-class breaks of Wanning city's Riyue Bay to the crystalline "glass waters" of Jiajing Island, the region is harnessing its natural assets to build a vibrant, multisport coastal culture that attracts adventurers and dreamers from across the world.

At the center of this transformation is Wanning, where the government has strategically leveraged its natural assets to create a multilayered coastal economy with a structured approach: building on its core surf brand, expanding into diverse water sports, enriching its tourism ecosystem, and fully integrating sports, culture and business.

This is most evident at Riyue Bay, widely regarded as the symbolic heart of China's surfing revolution.

With waves rated among the most consistent in the world for nearly 300 days a year, and an average sea temperature hovering around 26 C, Riyue Bay has cultivated a dedicated international community of surfers, coaches and enthusiasts.

"China's surfing scene looks to Wanning, and Wanning's surfing is at Riyue Bay," says Li Zijia, founder of the local Isurf club. Originally from Beijing, Li relocated to Wanning to dedicate himself to the sport and help build its community. He stresses the inclusivity of surfing: its ability to welcome children taking their first lessons, teenagers testing their balance, and adults well into their 50s seeking a fresh connection to nature.

"The appeal of surfing lies in its longevity. It's a sport you can enjoy for many years," he says.

Instructors assist participants closely, offering a safe way to engage with the ocean. For novices, small waves ranging from 0.2 to 0.8 meters are considered ideal training grounds.

Li emphasizes that while a coach can help a first-timer ride waves within hours, true independence usually requires two to three months of consistent practice.

"Surfing involves three elements: the waves, the surfer's fitness, and the quality of instruction," he says.

The daily rhythm of Riyue Bay is a study in contrasts. By day, the focus is on the ocean. Ma Xiaogang, 33, a surfer from Heilongjiang province, speaks of the meditative focus the sport demands. "You're just purely surfing, feeling the present moment," he reflects after spending nearly six months immersed in the bay's lifestyle.

Ma prefers surfing the morning waves because it's cooler, spending an hour and a half in the water whenever conditions allow. Some sessions yield nothing, while others leave surfers tossed onto the sand. "It's endless paddling and popping up, but when you're out there, you're simply living in the moment," he says.

The joy of sharing the experience adds another dimension. "When I surf with my friends, we capture the good moments of each other riding the waves and share them on social media. It feels really cool," he adds.

For Zhang Chuang, 22, a swimming coach from Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, it's about the relentless practice and the casual camaraderie among surfers waiting for the next set.

"In the lineup, surfers often greet or call out incoming sets, sometimes riding waves together. But we keep a conscious distance from each other to avoid collisions with boards," he says.

As night falls, the bay undergoes a metamorphosis. The beachfront transforms into a lively social hub where music pulses from clubs and bars, mingling with the sound of breaking waves. Li sums it up with poetic duality: "At night, it's the spirit of Dionysus; by day, it's the spirit of surfing."

Riyue Bay in Wanning is a mecca for adventurers. [Photo provided to China Daily]

The island's allure extends far beneath the surface. A short boat ride from the coast of Shimei Bay lies Jiajing Island, a protected marine area celebrated for its exceptional lively social hub where music pulses from clubs and bars, mingling with the sound of breaking waves. Li sums it up with poetic duality: "At night, it's the spirit of Dionysus; by day, it's the spirit of surfing."

The island's allure extends far beneath the surface. A short boat ride from the coast of Shimei Bay lies Jiajing Island, a protected marine area celebrated for its exceptional water clarity, with visibility reaching up to 20 meters. This "Glass Sea", as it is popularly known, has become one of the island's crown jewels.

Sun Pei, operations manager for China Resources Land in Hainan and director of the National Diving (Southern) Training Base, calls it "the Maldives of China".

The island is a hub for snorkeling, scuba diving, sea fishing and riding a banana boat, offering tourists a chance to see vibrant coral gardens and diverse marine life, including parrotfish, groupers and sea urchins.

The business model emphasizes accessibility and shared experiences. Group yacht tours are priced at 500 yuan ($70) per person, making the experience popular with a young, social media-savvy crowd seeking shared adventures.

"Everyone on the yacht can provide emotional value to each other," Sun notes, highlighting the social draw.

First-time visitors often find the island transformative. For 26-year-old Lei Senqiang from Sichuan province, the highlight was finally encountering the marine life he had previously only seen on screen.

"My friends and I all love the film Finding Nemo. When we heard we could see clownfish while diving here, we had to come," he says.

A key to Hainan's thriving water sports scene lies in its strong emphasis on safety, professionalism and environmental stewardship. Bilingual instructors — common among surf and diving operations — prioritize not only technical skills but also cultural connection and personal resilience.

This holistic approach often leaves a deep impression on international visitors. For Australian media consultant Troy Sandford, who tried surfing for the first time in early September, what resonated most was not riding his first wave but the philosophy his instructor shared.

"The first time my coach stood up on a wave, he told me he fell in love. He said he'd do anything to surf for a living," Sandford recalls.

For Sandford, the coach's passion spoke louder than the sport itself. "He told me that waiting for the right wave is like waiting for the right opportunity in life — not every one is perfect, but when you catch the right one, it's incredible. When the ocean is calm, you have time to think. It becomes a form of meditation."

Safety remains essential to the industry. According to Zhou Li, a national surfing judge who moved to Wanning from Shanghai more than a decade ago, while surfing carries risks, respect for the ocean and recognition of one's limits make the sport accessible and sustainable.

Diving operators take a similarly cautious approach. Wang Jinming, sales manager at China Resources Shimei Bay International Marina Club, emphasizes that all participants, especially beginners, should dive with professional guides or certified buddies. He also advises that children under 7 should avoid diving due to the risk of eardrum damage from water pressure.

Equally important, he adds, is environmental responsibility: avoiding contact with coral, and using only reef-safe sunscreen.

"Many conventional sunscreens contain chemicals that accelerate coral bleaching. We recommend protective diving suits and minimal application of eco-friendly sunscreen," he says.

From the adrenaline rush of a first wave to the tranquil thrill of floating over a coral reef, Hainan is successfully crafting a new identity. It's no longer just a tropical getaway for sunbathing; it's a dynamic destination where the spirit of vitality is powered by sun, sea and sport, creating a compelling new vibe on China's southern coast.

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