中國網站品牌欄目（頻道）
淺褐、黑、紅、白的四色格子魅力非凡，于不經意間詮釋著純純的英倫風情；皇室成員、探險家、大明星……人人都愛巴寶莉，我們一起來看看這風靡世界的風衣名牌——巴寶莉——如何締造它的品牌傳奇……
By Susan Pfiefer
卓言 選 孔媛媛 譯
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Like the Chanel suit and the Birkin bag, the Burberry trench coat is one of fashion’s most iconic pieces. Its globally recognized name, trademark, and signature trenchcoat have been synonymous with quality and enduring style for over 150 years. Founder Thomas Burberry was born in 1835 and apprenticed in the drapery trade, establishing his own drapery business in Basingstoke, Hampshire, in 1856. A sportsman, Burberry was dissatisfied with the then-popular rubberized raincoat, which was heavy, restricting, and stifling, and thus unsuitable for extended outings. Inspired by country folk’s loose “smocks”, Burberry designed a tightly woven fabric made from water-repellent linen or cotton yarn. Although sturdy and tear-resistant, this “Burberry-proofed” cloth was lightweight and allowed air to circulate, making it considerably more comfortable than the heavy mackintosh. The tailor trademarked his cloth “Gabardine”, a Shakespearean term that referred to shelter from inclement weather. Burberry developed five different weights of gabardine. He even patented “Burberry-proofed” linings made from silk and wool. The gabardine name was used under exclusive trademark by Burberry until 1917. Britain’s King Edward, one of the first members of the royal family to don the gabardine coat, has been credited with popularizing the Burberry name by requesting the garment by name. Burberry garments have enjoyed a loyal following among royalty and celebrities around the world ever since. The company’s clientele has included Winston Churchill, George Bernard Shaw, Ronald Reagan, George Bush, Norman Schwarzkopf, and Paul Newman. The company also boasts warrants (endorsements of quality) from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and H.R.H. The Prince of Wales. Many officers began to wear trench coats at the turn of the century, during the Boer War in South Africa. Famous British generals, such as Lord Kitchener and Lord Baden-Powell preferred the lightweight cotton of trench coats to the heavier, rubberised Macintoshes they had been used to. With such powerful recommendations, the War Office gave its official approval to the trench coat in 1901, with the Admiralty for the Royal Marines following suit in 1906. And as Lord Kitchener, Commander in Chief of the British Army, began fashioning the trench coat—then referred to simply as a “Burberry”—the place of this clothing item in society was sealed. With the advent of trench warfare in 1914, trench coats became an essential piece of the military outfit, with added epaulettes and “D” rings to enable the attachment of military equipment. As the trench coat, then the world’s most durable weather coat, was popularised, it is estimated that between 1914 and 1918, 500,000 military trench coats were worn by combatant officers. When officers returned home after the war, they brought back their trench coats with them and the style became adopted into civilian life. Since then, the trench coat has become a significant cultural icon and has been donned by many famous movie stars, from Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca to Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The company designed hats, jackets and pants especially for hunting, fishing, golf, tennis, skiing, archery, and mountaineering. The garments’ time—and weather-tested reputation for durability helped make them the gear of choice for adventurers of the late 19th and early 20th century. Balloonists and early aviators wore specially made Burberry garments that let neither wind nor rain penetrate. Captain Roald Amundsen, Captain R.F. Scott, and Sir Ernest Shackleton wore Burberry clothing and took shelter in Burberry tents on their expeditions to the South Pole in the 1910s. Rainwear became so important to Burberry that the company soon whittled its lines down to little more than trench coats and tailored menswear for much of the 20th century. The conservative manufacturer stuck primarily to its well-known raincoats until the 1960s, when a fluke led Burberry to capitalize on the garments’ trademark tan, black, red, and white plaid lining. It all started with a window display at the company’s Paris store. The shop’s manager spiced up her arrangement of trench coats by turning up the hem of one coat to show off its checked lining, then repeated the check on an array of umbrellas. The clamor for the umbrellas was so immediate and compelling that Burberry’s made and quickly sold hundreds. This experiment eventually led to the introduction of the cashmere scarf, also a perennial best-seller. Burberry’s success continued throughout the decades. Many more stores have sprouted from the very first outfitters shop in Basingtoke. In the early 20th century, stores opened in Paris and New York while 1970 brought about further growth in New York with its first flagship store on 57th Street. In the latter 20th century and breaking through into the 21st, Burberry started to blossom with stores in San Francisco, Chicago, Boston, New Jersey, Barcelona, Milan, Munich and many more. The beginning of the 21st century introduced a new venture for the company. They introduced their first fragrance. Burberry has evolved from fine outdoors wear into one of the top labels in high-end fashion today. With nearly 150 years underneath its belt, the brand remained consistent in quality and timeless designs. Burberry continues to produce some of the most superb items in both luxury and innovative functionality. It has stood the test of time.
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就像香奈兒套裝和柏金包一樣，巴寶莉風衣也是時尚界最經典的代表作之一。150多年來，它那全球知名的品牌、商標和招牌風衣一直都是品質以及不朽風格的代名詞。 品牌的創建者托馬斯?巴寶莉生于1835年，曾給布料商做過學徒。1856年，他在漢普夏郡的貝辛斯托克開辦了自己的布店。作為一名戶外運動愛好者，巴寶莉不滿于當時流行的橡膠雨衣，那種雨衣笨重、穿著不便、又不透氣，不適合長時間的戶外活動。受鄉下人寬松“罩衫”的啟發，巴寶莉設計出一種由防水的亞麻布或棉紗制成的質地密實的紡織品。這種“巴寶莉防水”布料不但結實抗撕，還非常輕便，而且利于空氣流通，比那種笨重的膠布雨衣舒適得多。這位裁縫把他的布料商標注冊為“軋別丁”，這是一個來自于莎士比亞戲劇中的詞，意思是“惡劣天氣中的遮蔽物”。巴寶莉研發出五種不同重量的“軋別丁”。他甚至還為絲綢和羊毛制的“巴寶莉防水”襯料申請了專利。 直到1917年，“軋別丁”都被巴寶莉用作獨家商標名稱。英國國王愛德華是最早穿“軋別丁”外套的皇室成員之一，他被認為幫助普及了巴寶莉這一商標，因為他點名要穿巴寶莉時裝。自此，巴寶莉時裝就在全世界的皇室成員和社會名流圈中享有了一批忠實擁躉。該公司的客戶包括溫斯頓?丘吉爾、蕭伯納、羅納德?里根、喬治?布什、諾曼?施瓦茨科普夫和保羅?紐曼。讓該公司引以為豪的還有英國女王伊麗莎白二世和威爾士親王查爾斯王子頒發的（質量認可）“皇室御用保證”。 世紀之交發生在南非的英布戰爭中，很多軍官都開始穿風雨衣。比起他們曾經習慣的更為笨重的膠布雨衣，那些著名的英國軍官們，如基欽納勛爵和巴登–鮑威爾勛爵，更偏愛這種風雨衣的輕便棉質布料。 有了這樣強有力的推薦，（英國）陸軍部在1901年正式批準了該風雨衣在陸軍中的推廣，隨后（英國）海軍部也在1906年批準該風雨衣供皇家海軍陸戰隊使用。隨著英軍總司令基欽納勛爵開始穿這個牌子的風雨衣——當時只被簡單地稱為一件“巴寶莉”——這款服裝在社會上的地位也就此確立。 隨著1914年壕溝戰的出現，風雨衣成了一種必不可少的軍事服裝，上面有附帶的肩章和D型圓環，可以用來系掛軍事裝備。風雨衣，這種當時世界上最耐用的晴雨兩用外套，被普及推廣開來；據估計，1914年到1918年間參戰軍官們共穿用了50萬件軍用風雨衣。 戰后，軍官們返回家園時也把他們的風雨衣帶回了家，這種風格的服裝也隨之進入了平民生活。從那以后，風雨衣就成了一個重要的文化象征，許多著名影星，從《卡薩布蘭卡》中的漢弗萊?鮑嘉到《蒂凡尼的早餐》中的奧黛麗?赫本，都身穿巴寶莉風衣。 公司專門為打獵、釣魚、玩高爾夫、打網球、滑雪、射箭和登山設計了帽子、外套和褲子。這些服裝歷經時間和風雨考驗得來的耐用聲譽使它們成為19世紀末、20世紀初冒險家們的上乘之選。乘熱氣球飛行者和早期飛行員們都穿著特制的防風防雨的巴寶莉服裝。在20世紀初十多年的南極探險中，阿蒙森上校、斯科特上校和沙克爾頓爵士都身穿巴寶莉服裝，并曾在巴寶莉帳篷中藏身避難。 防水衣對巴寶莉變得尤為重要，公司很快便削減了生產線，在20世紀的大部分時間里，幾乎只生產風衣和定制男裝。一直以來，保守的生產商都主要生產其著名的風雨衣，直到20世紀60年代，一次偶然的機會讓巴寶莉開始利用它商標上的淺褐、黑色、紅色和白色的格子花紋。這一切都始于公司巴黎店的一次櫥窗陳設。店鋪經理為給風衣的陳列增添些趣味，她翻起一件風衣的下擺來展示它的格子花紋線條，然后又放上一排同樣花紋的雨傘。人們對這種雨傘的需求變得如此急切，巴寶莉開始制造并很快售出了上百把。這次試驗最終促成了羊絨圍巾的誕生，它同樣常年暢銷。 巴寶莉的成功持續了幾十年。繼第一家開在貝辛斯托克的服裝店之后，更多的店鋪紛紛涌現。20世紀早期，它的店鋪開到了巴黎和紐約。20世紀70年代又在紐約得到了進一步的發展：在57街設立了它的第一家旗艦店。在20世紀后期及跨越21世紀之際，巴寶莉在舊金山、芝加哥、波士頓、新澤西、巴塞羅那、米蘭、慕尼黑和很多其他城市開始設立分店。 公司在21世紀初開發了一項新業務，推出了他們的第一款香水。如今，巴寶莉已逐漸從高品質的戶外服裝品牌演變為一個高端時尚界的頂級品牌。發展近150年來，該品牌在質量和永不過時的設計理念方面始終如一。巴寶莉繼續生產出既注重奢華又創新實用的一流產品，它經受住了時間的考驗。 （來源：英語學習雜志） |
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Vocabulary: trench coat 原為在戰壕內穿的防雨大衣，現指任何的翻領大衣、風衣 Birkin bag 柏金包，是由生產皮革及成衣的制造商愛瑪仕（Hermès）于1984年推出的一款手提包，以英國歌手珍?柏金（Jane Birkin）的名字命名 mackintosh 〈主英〉馬金托什防水膠布，雨衣布 Gabardine 軋別丁。在16世紀英國文學里，和面料有關的詞常用gabardine。莎士比亞在作品中曾寫道：“我藏身在軋別丁（gabardine）的衣服里，抵抗風暴的侵襲” Norman Schwarzkopf 諾曼?施瓦茨科普夫，第一次海灣戰爭時的美國聯軍司令 Paul Newman 保羅?紐曼，美國好萊塢傳奇男影星 H.R.H. His（或Her）Royal Highness殿下（間接提及時用） Boer War 布爾戰爭，1899—1902年英國人與布爾人的戰爭。布爾人是南非荷蘭移民的后裔 Kitchener 基欽納（1850—1916），英國陸軍元帥，第一次世界大戰時任陸軍大臣 Baden-Power 巴登–鮑威爾（1857—1941），英國陸軍軍官，童子軍創建人 follow suit 跟著做，模仿（……的）樣子 advent （尤指不尋常的人或事物的）出現，到來 outfit （尤指在特殊場合穿的）全套服裝 epaulette （軍官制服上的）肩章，肩飾 gear （為某個場合或活動穿的）一套服裝 Roald Amundsen 羅納德?阿蒙森（1872—1928），挪威極地探險家，首次通過西北航道駛往阿拉斯加，1911年率南極探險隊最早到達南極 R.F. Scott R.F. 斯科特（1868—1912），英國海軍軍官、探險家，兩次指揮南極探險隊，他比阿蒙森晚1個月到達南極，死于歸途暴風雪中 Sir Ernest Shackleton 沙克爾頓爵士（1874—1922），英國探險家，率隊3次到南極探險，到達南磁極區 fluke 〈口〉偶然機會 clamor 吵吵鬧鬧的要求 57th Street 57街，位于紐約市中心一條充滿藝術氣息和高級餐廳的街道 underneath its belt 被自己記住（或獲得、贏得、掌握、經歷過） superb 〈口〉最佳的，高質量的，杰出的 |
