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Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) clothes belonging to Confucius' aristocratic descendants are amongthe best-preserved of the era and offer hints of lost textile arts. Zhao Ruixue reports in Jinan.

Despite being more than 500 years old, the silk garments worn by Yansheng dukes -Confucius' direct descendants, honored as nobility - are as well kept as when the aristocratswore them to meet Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) emperors.

The best-preserved Ming clothing was discovered in two black cases in theConfucius Family Mansion in Qufu, Shandong province. There were about100 garments. Of these, some 40 articles of Ming clothing and 50 pieces ofQing Dynasty (1644-1911) clothing were donated to the ShandongProvincial Museum between 1954 and 1956.

"Most of the clothing was awarded by emperors. The dukes treasured theselike champions treasure gold medals today," says Song Dong, curator of anongoing exhibition featuring the Ming and Qing nobles' wardrobes in theShandong Provincial Museum.

The title Yansheng was created as a marquisate during the Western HanDynasty (206 BC-AD 24). The Song (960-1279) Emperor Renzong(1022-63) raised the 46th-generation descendant of Confucius to the rankof duke. Dukes enjoyed privileges until the Republic of China's founding in1911.

Duke Yansheng ranked first or second among civil officials during the MingDynasty.

The Records for Qufu shows that Ming emperors awarded Yansheng dukesvarious garments, including court robes, crowns, shoes and jade belts. Thedukes cherished these items.

Confucius family members have long highlighted clothing as a crucialcomponent of etiquette. The Confucius Family Mansion employed specialservants to care for the clothing.

A servant would take a list of the clothing that the Duke Yansheng coupleshould wear on a special occasion to another servant who was exclusivelyresponsible for getting the clothing from the wardrobe. There were alsoservants responsible for maintaining the clothing.

The garments are now kept in a special cabinet with controlled temperature,humidity and illumination ranges. They're displayed on acid-free paper, saysYu Qin, who's responsible for the garments at the museum.

"If we can't preserve the clothing carefully, it will carbonize and disappear,"Song says.

"After all, silk is mostly protein."

Ming Tombs Research Society member Cao Jin points out clothes passeddown for generations are usually in better condition than those unearthed.

"It took two years for one person to finish such a robe," Cao says, pointing toa mustard-colored silk robe with an embroidered boa exhibited in themuseum.

"The robe is so well preserved that you can even see the stitches."

The clothing collection from the Confucius Family Mansion includes perhapsthe world's only complete set of Ming court clothing, Song says. But it's notyet known which duke it belonged to. It consists of a five-beamed crown, redsilk court robe, red silk skirt, white silk inner garment and a pair of bright redshoes with green lining and cloud patterns.

The crown is the only one of its kind, although its pin and tassel is missing.

Yu Qin, from the museum, says: "Parts of the garments disintegrated when we tried to hangthem up."

Song says the most difficult part of restoring Ming clothing is the pigmentation, which was madefrom Ming-era plants.

"Nobody knows how to make these today," Song says.