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 ? Wang Buliu |
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1. The Architecture in Anchang The most representative architecture in Anchang is its well-preserved old streets built along the river, which can be traced to the Ming and Qing dynasties and extends 1,747 meters. A green river runs through the old town from the west to the east and the banks are linked by stone arch bridges with various shapes. The area south of the river is mainly for residences, while in the north lies the market with narrow streets. And by its side, not bordering the water, are traditional stores and workshops with many kinds of ancient craftsmanship still reserved and inherited. What makes Anchang more extraordinary is its vitality, in addition to its status as an old town. Though there are many old waterside towns in the southern Yangtze River area, one with such original flavor and atmosphere like Anchang is certainly extremely rare.
There are many ancient stone bridges like this in Anchang, which is of primitive simplicity and elegance and is small and exquisite. Bridges of this kind amount to no less than 10 along its long street, extending 1.5 kilometers.
The dignified ancient mansions and deep and serene alleys feature the rich flavor of waterside towns.
2. Cured Delicacies in the Old Town of Anchang
The best time to visit Anchang is in December, when the thousands-year-old folk custom in Shaoxing is completely unfolded. After Dec 8 (in lunar calendar), the Spring Festival is approaching and every household begins their preparations for the festival. Every household will make sausages and hang the finished sausages on the front porch or window because they are a necessity for the New Year’s Eve dinner on the last day of a year symbolizing permanent reunion. I love to visit around Dec 24 when people are busy making pickled chicken and duck, sausages, dried fish, rice cake, zongzi (traditional Chinese rice-dumpling), malt sugar and etc. I love the folk life with original flavor there as well as its age-old and plain customs in a waterside region.
Sausages are the most famous featured product of the old town. They were originally made by local residents for eating during festivals; now they are bought by an increasing number of tourists to at back home, so many shops in the town are selling these products. Many sausages are filled and made on site with abundant ingredients for tourists. Foods like sausages and dried fish hang everywhere in front of houses and along the river.
The traditional malt sugar pulling. Skills are required for pulling the malt sugar and when it is pulled very long, the malt sugar can thus be tough enough for chewing and meanwhile the craftsmanship of the puller will be admired.
3. The Ancient Craftsmanship of the People in Anchang
Anchang is quite different from the other old towns I’ve ever visited. It is more original while less affected and showy than towns like Wuzhen and Zhouzhuang; It is unlike towns such as Maoyuan, which was specially developed for tourism and will charge whenever you take up your camera. Neither is it like the Old Town of Pantan, which is almost an empty town except for the working staff selling tickets and a few aged people enjoying the sunshine. Compared with these others, Anchang remains so vigorous and a part of my childhood life. It is such a fortunate thing that Anchang has kept well what is lost and gone in many other places. These types of craftsmanship are now rarely seen in the countryside of south Yangtze River regions.
4. Wupeng Boat (Black-Awning Boat) in the Waterside Town
Wupeng Boat (Black-awning boat) is a symbol for the waterside Shaoxing and Anchang is no exception. When sitting in a Wupeng boat like this one briskly passing the ancient stone bridge and the ports along the river, listening to the sound of the scull paddling in the water and watching the sparkling ripples in the water. Will you feel like slow times have come back?
Anchang is reclusive, serene and poetic. With its smooth, paved stones on the streets and its lucid and clear water, its peacefulness and simplicity seems reminiscent of our childhood life and may suddenly arouse the melancholy emotions of people. Meanwhile, Anchang is mundane and lively and people will always linger on due to its vitality and natural beauty of simplicity and primitiveness.
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