Poached chicken with chicken essence.

Longevity

Golden Leaf's master chef So Kai Chiu has been with the restaurant for 18 years since joining Conrad Hong Kong in 1997, we later learned. That longevity of service is not all that common for chefs, who, in Beijing at least, are among the most frequent job hoppers.

The environment was not particularly quiet, but in this case that is a blessing. After all, there is very little that is appealing in a Chinese restaurant that is quiet. It needs to be a little lively, but quiet enough for conversation. In this, as in many other ways, Golden Leaf, seems to be able to strike exactly the right balance.

On leaving, we felt we had become quite attached to this place, not just because of the taste sensations we enjoyed but also because of the service that contributed to a calm, enjoyable dining experience.

Contact the writer at dongfangyu@chinadaily.com.cn